Cajun Mardi Gras History:
Cajun Mardi Gras traditions date back to medieval France (and perhaps earlier) when, on the "anything goes" holiday celebrating the last day before the Lenten fast, peasants would dress up in ridiculous costumes, generally ridiculing their "superiors" (Nobles, Clergy and Intelligentsia). They would then travel around their area seeking alms or handouts. The mummers of England and modern Halloween celebrations have similar roots.What Mardi Gras is Today:
In small towns in rural Louisiana, the Mardi Gras riders wake up early, get into costume, saddle up the horse and begin traversing their local village in a large parade-style group. At each house, they dismount and beg for an ingredient for a gumbo. Generally, the homeowner will throw them a live chicken, which they must catch, resulting in much hilarity. Beer is a major factor in the celebration as well, making it all the more fun to watch.See Photos of a Traditional Cajun Mardi Gras Run
Costuming:
Most Mardi Gras costumes are simply pants and shirts bearing large fringes of multicolored fabric. Some people are decorated with traditional Mardi Gras colors of Green, Purple and Gold, but many are wildly multicolored. Masks and hats are also often worn, including the traditional capuchon, a tall, pointed hat.Music:
Each group of Mardi Gras riders (which sometimes number in the hundreds) are accompanied by a local Cajun band, who play the traditional "Mardi Gras Song" at each house. The band rides on a "bandwagon", often equipped with loudspeakers or a PA system so everyone can hear.Joining in a Mardi Gras Run:
While outsiders generally are not allowed to join the actual groups of people who are catching the chickens, they are welcome to follow behind the riders and the bandwagon. The run in Eunice, Louisiana has become so popular among outsiders, in fact, that the 2005 run had a few thousand people following behind the actual Mardi Gras riders.The End of the Day:
When all the chickens have been caught, the riders head back into town, where a dance is held and the chickens are cooked into a gumbo (a spicy chicken and sausage stew). At midnight, all celebrations end, for Lent has started and it's time to repent.Towns With Mardi Gras Runs:
Most towns in the prairie regions of Southwest Louisiana have Mardi Gras runs, although some of them actually take place on the few days preceeding Fat Tuesday. Towns with well-known runs include Eunice, Mamou, Iota, Basile and Church Point.Vocabulary:
Mardi Gras - Fat Tuesday. Also used to refer simply to the riders, called "Les Mardi Gras."Capitaine - The man in charge of keeping a group of Mardi Gras riders under control and leading the way.
Gumbo - A spicy chicken and sausage stew, eaten at the end of the day.
Charite' - French word for "charity", refers to the alms given out by neighbors.
Courir - French word for "run", refers to the Mardi Gras run as a whole.
The Mardi Gras Song - La Chanson de Mardi Gras:
In Cajun French:
Les Mardi Gras sont vient de tout partout,
Tout alentour le tour du moyeu,
Ca passe une fois par an, demande' la charite',
Quand-meme ca c'est une patate, une patate ou des gratons
Les Mardi Gras sont dessus un grand voyage,
Tout alentour le tour du moyeu,
Ca passe une fois par an, demande' la charite',
Quand-meme ca c'est un poule maigre, ou trois ou quatre coton mais.
Capitaine, capitaine, voyage ton flag,
Allons chez un autre voisin,
Demande' la charite' pour les autres qui viennent nous rejoindre,
Nous-autres qui viennent nous rejoindre,
Ouais, au gombo ce soir!
Translation:
The Mardi Gras come from all around, all around the center of town.
They come by once per year, asking for charity.
Sometimes it's a sweet potato, a sweet potato or pork rinds.
The Mardi Gras are on a great journey, all around the center of town.
They come by once per year, asking for charity.
Sometimes it's a skinny chicken, or three or four corn cobs.
Captain, captain, wave your flag, let's go to another neighbor's.
Asking for charity for everyone who'll come join us later,
Everyone who'll come join us later at the gumbo tonight!
Note that the boldfaced lines in the French version are "sing along" parts; musicians and the crowd alike sing them loudly.
A classic recording of this song can be found on The Balfa Brothers - Play Traditional Cajun Music Vol. 1 and 2 ().
